When the novelist and intrepid adventurer Graham Greene wrote his dark novel ‘The Quiet American’ in the mid-1950s, he was intimately acquainted with a country very different to the one so rapidly emerging today. A country so full of history, war and political development, one can’t resist exploring Vietnams culture, food, lush natural environment and getting to know the friendly and warm local people. Slipstream travelled from the northern capital of Hanoi down and through the peninsula, passing through Da Nang and finishing in Ho Chi Minh City (aka Saigon). Here’s a taste.
Hanoi
Hanoi is located in the north of Vietnam and is where the old medieval Vietnam meets the new modern young Asia. Rich in history, you can explore the country’s social, political and cultural environments as well as being faced with swarms of motorbikes, hawkers in conical hats, and locals sipping coffee and beer as the tourists pass by. Hanoi is surrounded by vibrant neighborhoods, colonial architecture and of course the mouthwatering food scene. Hanoi is definitely the place to experience a little bit of everything that Vietnam has to offer. It’s also the local stomping ground of celebrity chef Luke Nguyen. The destination speaks for itself if you are a self-confessed foodie! Try the Hanoi favourite – Bun Cha (grilled pork & noodle).
Sapa
Sapa is located at the northwest of Vietnam and has the most spectacular views overlooking a plunging valley of cascading rice paddy’s surrounded by towering mountains. Even on a cloudy day the views are spectacular. The town has been built to enjoy the surrounding views. An interesting gothic stone church sits in the centre of town and the shops and stalls serve as a reminder of the town’s French missionary influence. You will be sure to come across the H’mong people (the hill tribe people) who will offer their crafts and trinkets. Sapa is a breath of fresh air while the mountainous layers of greenery create a sense of meditative calmness that you will not want to leave.
Halong Bay
Imagine thousands of limestone peaked islands rising from the emerald waters of the Gulf of Tonkin – sounds like a dream come true! We were surrounded by picturesque beauty and a world heritage wonder. Kayaking and sailing are just a few water sports options otherwise exploring the caves was an adventure for those on land. Swimming and relaxing at a white sandy private beach is hard to refuse and is only a short boat trip from Cat Ba Town. There is an old myth that a great dragon created the mountains of Halong Bay, when it charged towards the coast, its tail gouged out valleys and crevasses which created its famous peaked islands. Halong Bay has a variety of fresh seafood and amazing dishes – try some big juicy prawns or grilled monkfish.
Huế
Huế is very much a city with a blend of old and new. It is located at the center of Vietnam and was the imperial capital of the Nguyen feudal dynasty during 1802 to 1945, until it was abdicated and a communist government was established in Hanoi. The Huế location was vulnerable during the Vietnam War due to it being central to the north and south leaving considerable damage to some of its historical buildings which are still being restored today. Along the Perfume River are several monuments including the tombs of Emperors. The Thiên Mụ Pagoda is the largest pagoda in Huế and the official symbol of the city. The Royal Citadel set up by Nguyen Dynasty captures most of the tourists’ attention. Aside from cultural artifacts and architecture, the food scene is quite tame compared to other bustling Vietnam cities and has no real bar scene. Vegetarians are prominent in Huế, so a great chance to opt for a vegetarian dish.
Da Nang
Da Nang is a major port city and one of the biggest on the south central coast. In the past is was viewed as a bit of a ‘hicksville’ destination and was not an overly popular place to visit in Vietnam. It is now a thriving educational and industrial center with a bustling nightlife and new modernist hotels. During the Vietnam War, the city was home to a major air base used by both the South Vietnamese and United States air forces. The city is largely built with midrise buildings with many new developments underway due to its growing industrialization. Check out the view from the Green Plaza Hotel.
The city is part of a narrow peninsula, Nui Son Tra at the north (referred to as Monkey Mountain by US soldiers), with China Beach and the five Marble Mountains at the southwest. For a growing bustling city the pace is slower with less horn honking. For some safe street food, try the traditional Banh Gio, a glutinous sticky rice with pork which is very popular in central and northern Vietnam.
Hoi An
Hoi An is a vibrant city, a cosmopolitan melting pot to say the least, and one of the Vietnams most wealthy and ancient towns. Also a culinary mecca, known for its lounge bars, boutique hotels, and tailor shops are very much part of the scene. It is the best place to have a suit tailored, shoes copied, or anything at a good price.
Only a few kilometers away is An Hoi Peninsula and Cam Nam Island where you will find some of central Vietnam’s most desirable beaches and scenery.
Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)
South Vietnam was a capitalist and anti-communist state. Saigon was the capital of the Republic of Vietnam between 1954 and reunification in 1975. After the Vietnam war ended in 1975 with a Communist victory it was officially renamed Ho Chi Minh City. A few key stops in Ho Chi Min include District 1’s Ben Thanh Market with a maze of over 3000 stalls.
The Gothic-styled Saigon Central Post Office (1886) and remains one of the country’s most celebrated structures.
Temple Club is in one of the last heritage buildings in central Ho Chi Min City, modeled on the old Saigon, Vietnamese, Chinese, Khmer, Indian and French, with a fine wine selection on the menu. Another option is the Dong Khoi area which is home to several live-music venues and more upmarket bars. There is no shortage of restaurants to taste the local cuisine, be sure to try pho (traditional Vietnamese noodle soup) and pork rolls.
Mekong Delta / Can Tho
The Mekong Delta is a watery labyrinth landscape of green fields often dubbed as the “rice bowl” of Vietnam with enough rice to feed the country. It’s another world, where markets, villages and schools float on sprawling, life-sustaining estuaries. Can Tho is the biggest city of the Mekong Delta, best to get around by foot, otherwise taxi or private boat. We explored the quaint riverside towns, sampled fruits bartered in the colorful floating markets and dined on home-cooked delicacies. Travelling around by boat is the best way to get a feel for the local way of living. You can’t beat the local produce from the local orchards, flower markets and fish farms.
Key Facts
- Vietnam War 1955 – 1975
- Marxism was introduced into Vietnam with the emergence of three separate communist parties; the Indochinese Communist Party, Annamese Communist Party and the Indochinese Communist Union
- The Communist Party of Vietnam (CPV), also known as the Vietnamese Communist Party (VCP), is the founding and ruling political party of the Socialist Republic of Vietnam In 1976, Vietnam was officially unified and renamed Socialist Republic of Vietnam (SRVN)
- The government is a socialist republic and is a single-party state
- Entry and exit visas are required prior to travel
- The conical hat is the quintessential Vietnamese hat
- Religion – Buddhism
- Best time to travel – In the winter monsoon comes from the northeast between October and March. From April or May to October, the summer monsoon brings hot, humid weather to the whole country except for those areas sheltered by mountains
- Language – Vietnamese
- Capital City – Hanoi
- Currency – Vietnamese Dong.
Why Vietnam
- History – prominence of colonial buildings and world heritage sites. Vietnam has one of the longest continuous histories in the world
- Culture – agricultural civilization based on the cultivation of wet rice, is one of the oldest in East Asia
- Cuisine – distinctive flavours and traditional Vietnamese cooking is greatly admired
- Nature – diverse natural landscapes ranging from high mountains and highlands to river deltas and tropical islands
- Friendly people and low crime rate make for safe and enjoyable travel
- Graham Greene spent much of the period 1951-1954 in Vietnam while he was writing ‘The Quiet American’ (1955). His book ‘Graham Greene’s Vietnam’ is a recommended reading guide to anyone planning to travel to Vietnam.
Beware of
- Touts
- Pickpockets can target tourists in major cities make sure you travel with a companion or in a group
- Traffic can be full on in major city areas, especially swarms of motorbikes, watch out for traffic at all times
- Avoid tap water and ice cubes, better to drink bottled water if possible
- Jumping on a bike with no experience
- Be wary of the high prices of goods sold at the famous Ben Tanh market. For most parts they try to sell it at first call 50 +% higher than the original price
- Malaria is a risk mainly in rural areas, full vaccination is required before travel, make sure to pack a can of insect repellent.
Image credits: Hanoi, Sockeyed; Sapa, Danielguip; Halong Bay, ateliercypher; Huế, goneforawonder; and Da Nang, KentonNgo;
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